Home of the Bone

Of Far and Away
THE COMPLETE FLY FISHERMAN MAGAZINE
ARTICLE BY PJ JACOBS

The enigmatic Albula vulpes. Fly fishers refer to them as "Grey Ghosts of the Flats", bonefish or simply bones, whilst in various locations across the world, natives have a host of other names for them. A popular species for more than one reason, they apparently make good table fare, notwithstanding the many fine bones in their flesh that give them their common name. They are widespread, occurring in almost all the oceans of the world, between roughly 30 degrees north and south of the equator. In South Africa, sight-fishing opportunities for this species are limited, and those bones that are taken on fly can be considered trophies. On our coastline they occur from Durban, increasing in abundance as one moves further north. A monster of 19lbs, taken on conventional tackle by one Brian W. Bachelor on 26 May 1962, in what was then known as "Zululand", has been regarded as the all-tackle record until recently. The closest "real" bonefishing however, is the Seychelles, where classical flats sight-fishing is the norm and rumours of large bonefish abound. Offering outstanding fly fishing for bones, the stories are rolling in and many local anglers are taking up the challenge at this venue. Bonefishing here is still in its infancy and as this fishery is explored to its full potential, I am sure we can look forward to many more exciting stories of big bones on fly.

Further northwards, the fly fishing possibilities for bones remain largely unexplored. However, I believe that off the coast of Africa new "hot spots" are just waiting to be discovered. As the popularity of fly fishing for this species grows, more venues will start to cater to those fishing for them.

Since the late 19th Century, bonefish have captured the imagination of anglers world-wide, and pursuing them on the fly is about as good as salt water fly fishing can get. It encompasses everything a salt water fly fisher seeks: skill, accurate and delicate presentations, imitative flies, a powerful adversary and exotic locations. They can be easy to take, or frustratingly difficult at times, and sometimes even nigh on impossible. Opinions will differ on this, I know, for there are anglers who believe that they are too easy, and that one quickly looses interest because of this. To those so inclined I can only say that they probably haven't fished for big bones, and when they do, they will view this species with renewed respect. According to Lefty Kreh - in my book his opinion counts for a lot - they can be one of the most difficult fish to take on fly. The big boys are smart, wily, tough to hook and even tougher to land and can give the word "selective" a new meaning.

My bonefishing experience is limited - I took my first fish in the Caribbean in 1993, and in the eight years since I have fished for them at various locations around the world. During this time I have caught a substantial number of varying size. Never once did I become bored, irrespective of whether the fish were large or small. Admittedly, degrees of difficulty varied, but I have learned one thing - I have only scratched the surface in beginning to understand this wonderful angling fish. It would, I am sure, take many years before one could lay claim to being really adept at outwitting them consistently. When you do get a chance to fish for them, choose your location carefully, for it is not going to be cheap, wherever you decide go. But if you want to experience this type of fishing for what it really is - there is a place that offers everything you could wish for - big fish, exotic location and magnificent lodgings. This is the home of the bone - Kamalame Cay, Andros Island, Bahamas. And trust me, it doesn't come much better than this. It's the real deal, as they say!

ANDROS ISLAND – BAHAMAS

The Bahamas consist of a chain of islands approximately 500 miles in length, starting about 100 miles north of Palm Beach, Florida, and stretching south almost as far as Cuba. Mention that this is your destination and even non-fly fishers will eye you with envy - such is the sense of romance and adventure that surrounds these islands. For those interested in things other than piscatorial pursuits, Nassau, Freeport and Paradise Island will be the obvious choice. Sol Kersner is the developer of a huge entertainment complex on Paradise Island and nightlife and bright lights abound. This is probably why fly fishers choose to avoid them like the plague, and instead head for the outer islands. These offer peace and tranquility, and best of all, bonefishing!

Most of the other islands in the archipelago offer good to excellent sight-fishing throughout the year. Andros Island, the largest in the group, is approximately 100 miles in length and 40 miles wide and an excellent choice for big bonefish. Situated almost 30 miles west of Nassau, an interesting fact is that this island represents one of the least explored tracts of land in the Western Hemisphere, despite its relatively close proximity to the USA and its popularity as a fishing destination worldwide. Even more interesting is that although the flats surrounding the island have been fished for more than a decade, the less accessible flats at the island's north end are only now being regularly accessed and mapped out.

The island's interior is comprised of dense forest; mostly pine trees and mangroves, with the west coast mainly uninhabited and for the most part, uncharted. The majority of the 5000 inhabitants reside on the cast coast, scattered about in small settlements that can hardly be called towns. Some of the larger ones on North Andros, like Nicols Town and Andros Town, do represent substantial settlements and most amenities are available there. Although Andros is surrounded by shallow water flats, the island's east coast is paralleled by the second largest underwater barrier reef in the world. If you happen to fall off on the wrong side, you will find yourself in an area known as "The Tongue of the Ocean," where the traffic is one way only - 1000 fathoms straight down! This is one of the favourite haunts of American submarines, where hightech war games are played out. Luckily, this is a world far apart from the laid back and relaxed atmosphere that impregnates Andros Island, and for that matter, most of the islands in the Bahamas.

Andros Island is divided in three sections namely North Andros, Middle Andros and South Andros. The bulk of the population are found in the North and Middle section of the island, while South Andros is sparsely populated. Although we did spend some time at Middle Andros, most of our trip was devoted to North Andros and a resort known as Kamalame Cay, built and owned by Brain and Jennifer Hew. Situated on a 50 hectare island at the mouth of what is known as Staniard Creek on the north-east coast of Andros Island, it is a small, private and exclusive resort, catering for bonefishing as well as a host of other activities.

KAMALAME CAY

I do not easily use superlatives when describing developments, even if they are fishing lodges. However, if ever a place deserved such approbation, then Kamalame Cay would be first in line. It is a monument of achievement to Brian and his wife Jennifer, who between them, designed and built Kamalame Cay to a very high standard. Jennifer, an architect by profession, also did the decorating and the end result is grand in the true sense of the word. Luxurious without being ostentatious, stylish and in good taste, it is marketed by Frontiers International as one of the top bonefish destinations in the world today. Although undoubtedly true, it would be unfair to refer to Kamalame as a fishing lodge only. Whilst it does cater to fly fishers, the quality of the accommodation, the exotic, very private location and other activities offered, make it a coveted destination, even if you have never seen a fly rod in your life.

Kamalame features two deluxe villas, each with three well-appointed, private entrance bedrooms, bar area with well-stocked refrigerator, beautiful bathrooms with large bath and shower, as well as a one-bedroom cottage suite with full bathroom. All the villas have private patios, ceiling fans and air-conditioning and are situated virtually on the beach. The attention to detail ensures that the overall effect is extremely pleasing. Catering to a maximum of fourteen guests, you are assured of individual treatment and almost all your whims can be satisfied. Meals are served in the "Great House", and are something to took forward too, for during our stay they were without exception, simply excellent. A wide variety of liquor (including the best Rum money can buy and some rather excellent wines) is available. If you are so inclined, an after-dinner Cuban cigar can be enjoyed to round off what would inevitably have been a perfect day.

Being an island in its own right, Kamalame Cay affords you the opportunity of a leisurely swim in the placid bay in front of the Villa. Alternatively, you can fish for bones by wading the flat adjoining the island, just minutes from the Villa. A tropical garden assures privacy, and should you feel so inclined, you can spend the day at the pool, where you will be well looked after and served exotic drinks to your hearts content. All the Villas are situated within walking distance from the Great House, although motorised golf carts are available for those not inclined to walk. One of the things that I really liked about Kamalame, is that once you have paid for the accommodation, everything is included, except outdoor activities, like fishing and scuba diving, which are charged for additionally. Apart from this, no extra charges are levied, including service, alcohol, meals, laundry and even gratuities. This ensures that there are no unpleasant surprises when you come to pay your bill at the end of your stay. A good resort is nothing without good management and Brain and Jennifer not only provide this, but also offer genuine hospitality that soon makes you feel part of the family.

Quite simply, Andros Island provides some of the best bonefish flats to be found anywhere, offering classical sight-fishing for bonefish and other flats dwelling species in warm, shallow water over various types of bottom structure. Certain flats have firm bottoms and are mostly fished on foot, whilst others have soft mud bottoms and are best fished from a boat. The variety of available water is mind-boggling. Some flats seem to extend for miles in every direction, and coupled with the scenery, this makes for one of the loveliest places in the world, whether you like bones or not. Andros is known for big bonefish, and offers the occasional shot at other species like jacks and tarpon. Kamalame will allow you to visit flats where you will have a realistic chance of fishing to a bone in excess of 10lb. Ask me, I know, for I have seen them. Getting them to take the fly is another matter however, but big fish are taken here every year. Our excellent guide for the duration of our trip, Alvin, told of a client who hooked what he estimated to be a bone of 181b. It took almost all his backing before his tippet parted as a result of too much drag and probably too much fish! For fly fishers, it comes as close to Nirvana as you can hope to get. With its abundance of water, the chances of being crowded by other fishers are remote, and if you keep your wits about you, you have a good chance of getting connected to Mr. Bone, and a big one at that! The waters on these flats are mostly crystal clear and the variety in bottom structure provides one with a visual smorgasbord, the equal of which I have yet to experience anywhere else in the world. In fact, I can safely state that this was one trip where almost everything easily exceeded my expectations, and in many instances provided me with a new appreciation of things that I have come to take for granted.

Brian makes use of the latest state-of-the-art Maverick skiffs, designed for a very shallow draft and still offering relative comfort and safety in choppy water. The guides are top class; extremely professional and skilled in all aspects of fly fishing. Whilst Andros offers a diversity of fishing opportunities, on most days you will be ferried by air-conditioned vehicle to an area known as the "Joulter Cays", approximately 45 minutes from the resort. Once there, you will board the waiting skiff and embark on what justifiably could be a highlight in your fishing career - big fish, pristine environment, flats that extend as far as the eye can see, and, best off all, hungry bonefish, and lots of them!

One evening, after an especially good day on the flats, where my wife and I had taken many good bonefish between the two of us, I was sitting, back in one of the comfortable lounges in the Great House enjoying Brian's Limited Edition Bacardi Rum and listening to the stereo. The music sounded very Caribbean, but I did not recognise the artist. Brian was surprised, as the singer is apparently very well-known in the States. I guess he doesn't make my type of music otherwise I would have known who he was, but there in the middle of paradise, it sounded like the music was written to suit the moment and pay homage to God's great creation. That being the case, I was happy to sit back and just revel in the wonder of it all. Take us away Jimmy…

"Follow in my wake, you've not that much at stake For I have ploughed the seas, and smoothed the troubled waters, Come along let’s have some fun, the hard work has been done, We'll barrel roll into the sun, just for starters.”
Jimmy Buffet - Barometer Soup